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Getting to Know St. Thomas
Day trip and cruise ship passengers tour the town of Charlotte Amalie in the morning and the outlying parts of the 32-square-mile island in the afternoon. Therefore, avoid the crowds and enjoy a more leisurely day of sightseeing by traveling this route in reverse.
To do this, start out around 9 a.m., early enough to see all of St. Thomas and late enough to steer clear of the morning rush hour traffic. Drive through Charlotte Amalie and head west to Frenchtown, a lovely settlement founded in the 1800s by French fishermen whose families hailed from Brittany and Normandy. The Gustave Quetel Fishing Center is the place to buy fresh fish. There's a deli here where you can buy breakfast or sandwiches for a picnic at the beach later, a museum and a marina where kayak tours depart to nearby Hassel Island.
From Frenchtown, drive two miles west toward the Cyril E. King Airport. There's a beautiful arc of white-sand beach here that's ideal for an early morning dip. Once called Mosquito Bay, the name changed to Lindbergh Bay in 1928, when famous aviator Charles Lindbergh landed his Spirit of St. Louis here during a goodwill tour.
Take Route 33 to explore the western end of St. Thomas. This least populated and most mountainous side of the island boasts roller-coaster roads that offer hide-and-peek views of the Atlantic Ocean through lush strands of rainforest. Panoramic vistas from the St. Peter Greathouse, an 18th-century sugar estate and former governor's mansion that is open for daily tours, are spectacular. The British Virgin Islands of Tortola and Jost Van Dyke look only a stone's throw away on a clear day. There are more than 15 other islands and rocky cays visible from this vantage point. The bird's-eye view is equally as breathtaking from Drake's Seat, an overlook about three miles to the east of the Greathouse where privateer Sir Francis Drake is said to have spied his fleet. Drake would have also enjoyed an eye-candy view of Magens Bay, with its half-mile, heart-shaped, white-sand beach, directly below. Rated by National Geographic as one the of top 10 beaches in the world, this is the place for a quick swim, beach walk or sailboat rental. There are also bathrooms available as well as a concession that sells sandwiches and pizza.
From this point, turn south on Route 40 or Skyline Drive for a view of Charlotte Amalie from a nearly 1,000-foot elevation. Or, drive northeast on Route 42, where the Mahogany Run Golf Course fairways appear as a manicured oasis amid the lush jungle background. Both Presidents Clinton and Obama have played here and a host of other celebrities too. These two roads intersect at Route 38, which then loops around the eastern end of the Island.
Do stop at the Coral World Ocean Park. Here, it's possible to swim with sea lions, pet sharks and hand-feed fine feathered lorikeets little cups of nectar. Live shows, talks and feedings take place all day long. Coki Beach, right next door, is a perfect place to snorkel as the nearby reef is teeming with schools of rainbow-colored fish. Vendors at a number of wood shacks along the beach sell everything from "fish food" (dry pellets of dog food) to T-shirts and local dishes like boiled fish (head-on) and cornmeal polenta-like fungi.
The settlement of Red Hook is a 10-minute drive to the east. This is the jumping off point for the public ferries to St. John and the British Virgin Islands and also for a number of sportfishing, day sail and scuba diving charters. Red Hook has taken on a life of its own over the years and become a destination in its own right. Trendy restaurants, hip bars and designer shops are all here, along with banks, supermarkets and a pharmacy.
Drive back east along Route 38 and into the Tutu Valley. Nestled next to a busy intersection and the island's only shopping mall is Tillett Gardens. The late famed silkscreen artist Jim Tillett set up his studio here in the late 1950s. Today, this artists' enclave boasts more than 20 shops selling handcrafted goods ranging from pottery to silkscreened fabrics.
By this point, it's time to sightsee in Charlotte Amalie. Park in the Fort Christian Parking Lot and walk north to the Franklin Delano Roosevelt Virgin Islands' Veterans Memorial Park. Statuesque trees provide cool shade over the benches that line the walkways, and sculptures commemorating the five branches of military service are a focal point.
Next, stroll north and then west up Government Hill. There's a neat feeling on this street, thanks to the 18th-century-style wooden buildings with their intricate ironwork, fluted Corinthian columns and marbled tiled terraces, like you're actually walking back in time. The Seven Arches Museum, open by appointment (774-9295), brings back to life all the charms of a Danish craftsman's house. Government House, the working offices of the Virgin Island's governor, is open to the public for tours throughout the week. Look for the plaques on the wall that have every governor since 1970 listed in hand-lettered gold. Two buildings down and next to the step-street known as the 99 Steps is Hotel 1829, first built in that namesake year as a ship captain's home. In addition to still offering accommodations, this historic hotel marks the start of a walking tour that leads up to Blackbeard's Castle, where there's a large collection of life-sized bronze pirate statues.
The western side of Government Hill leads to the head of Main Street, Charlotte Amalie's shopping mecca. The latest designer jewelry and high-tech electronics are housed in plush air-conditioned shops along brick-lined alleyways where goods such as tobacco, sugar and rum were off-loaded from sailing ships centuries ago.
Finally, there's no place better to end the day than at Paradise Point. Perched on a hilltop overlooking the Havensight Shopping Mall to the east of Charlotte Amalie, this open-air bar and restaurant is the spot to sip a Bushwacker, watch for the sometimes elusive "green flash" at sunset and reflect on a wonderful day in America's Paradise.
CORAL WORLD OCEAN PARK
Adjacent to Coki Beach
340-775-1555
www.coralworldvi.com
Voted top tourist attraction and ecotourism in the V.I. Get up-close and personal with the beauty and magic of Caribbean marine life in a stunning setting. View life on a coral reef from the unique Undersea Observatory. Pet a shark, hand-feed a stingray or a rainbow lorikeet! Add-ons include the Sea Lion Swim and Encounter Programs, SNUBA, Sea Trek Helmet Dive, Shark and Turtle Encounters, Nautilus Semi-Submarine and Parasailing. Open daily 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Summer schedule may vary. Please call to confirm times.
SOUTHLAND GAMING OF THE VIRGIN ISLANDS
Over 60 locations, including Crown Bay Gaming Center, St. Thomas and The Parrot Club at Wharfside Village, St. John
340-777-SLOT
www.sgvi.com
WIN BIG JACKPOTS! The slots are the hottest bet in gaming, offering Vegas-style action day and night. Whether in a luxurious resort, a beachfront hot spot, favorite local restaurant or any of the over 60 locations on St. Thomas and St. John, it's sure to be exciting! Millions paid out. Blackjack, Keno, Poker, or whatever your game, the fun doesn't end when the sun goes down — it only gets hotter!
Getting to Know St. John
Outdoor activities are the main event, but there's plenty of shopping and many dining options when you want something less strenuous. Also, you can't beat the people watching in Cruz Bay Park. Located just across from the ferry dock, this is the perfect place to get your bearings if you've just arrived for a day trip.
Accommodations provide something for everyone. Two major hotels, multiple condominium complexes, vacation villas that range from posh to bare bones, and a handful of campgrounds with varying degrees of amenities round out the accommodations list.
Arrival is by ferry from either downtown Charlotte Amalie or Red Hook, both on St. Thomas, to the island's main town of Cruz Bay. If you haven't lined up a rental car, taxi drivers will take you to your destination. The two hotels operate private ferries to their docks to start your luxury vacation in style.
Although there are a few small convenience-type stores in Coral Bay, Cruz Bay is the place to stock up on necessities. Groceries, sunscreen, bottled water, beach towels, coolers to hold your beach beverages and whatever else you need are all available.
If you need to fill up your gas tank, Cruz Bay has the island's only gas station. Want to mail those postcards home? Cruz Bay is home to the island's only post office.
Start your sightseeing in Cruz Bay by either hopping a taxi or renting a car if you haven't already done so. There are many agencies scattered around the town, but it's prudent to make reservations in advance.
Shopping and dining are why most people linger in Cruz Bay, but a stroll around the grounds of the red-roofed Battery provides nice harbor views. Built in the 19th century, it now serves as the local government's seat.
Be sure to stop at either the local government Visitor Center in the small courtyard next to the post office or the V.I. National Park's Visitor Center near the start of the North Shore Road for maps and information.
Head out the North Shore Road for lovely views from the many overlooks along the way. Don't forget to make time for a swim at the beach. All the beaches are wonderful, but if you want a beach with some amenities try either Trunk Bay or Cinnamon Bay. Both have showers, lunch and vast expanses of gorgeous white sand. At Trunk, a snorkel along the underwater trail is a bonus. Only Trunk has lifeguards.
Cinnamon Bay offers up an easy stroll through old plantation ruins located across the road from the campground and beach complex. If you're up for a longer walk, take the half-mile loop trail. It starts and ends at the ruins, and takes you through the forest past an old plantation-era cemetery.
Continue along the North Shore Road with a stop at Annaberg Plantation. Built in the 1780s, the park has shored up the ruins of an old plantation. The view of Sir Francis Drake Channel and the nearby British Virgin Islands from near the sugar mill is magnificent. Don't miss the jail located in back of the oven. During the winter season, you might find docents to answer your questions or demonstrations of old-time crafts.
Francis Bay is in the same neighborhood. Park at the long, low building along the road for a very easy half-mile walk around the salt pond. You'll pass the ruins of an old estate house. The pond is a terrific birding location. The path brings you out at Francis Bay Beach, another good spot for spending a few hours in the sun.
The North Shore Road eventually runs into the island's main artery, Centerline Road. Head left to visit Coral Bay. It's a small village with shops and restaurants spread out along the road for a mile or so. The name Coral Bay comes from the Dutch work for corral, "krawl."
Continue along to Salt Pond, a worthwhile trip although it's a bit of a walk downhill — that means it's uphill on the return — to a lovely white beach. Head to the far side of the beach for a hiking trail through cactus gardens to Ram Head. The views in three directions are spectacular. If you take the flatter path past a salt pond, you'll reach the windswept Drunk Bay. There's no swimming here, but it's a good place to explore the flotsam and jetsam that washes up from passing ships.
Retrace your drive to Centerline Road, where you'll head toward Cruz Bay. Stop at the Bordeaux Overlook for great views looking east from St. John's highest point. Bordeaux rises 1,277 feet above sea level.
If you're up for a big hike, the two-mile Reef Bay trailhead is on Centerline Road. It takes about an hour and a half down and about two hours back uphill. The side trail to the petroglyphs, about one third of a mile long and located near the bottom of the trail, is worthwhile to see the rock art left behind by the Taino Indians. They lived on St. John starting around the year 800 until 1490. The ruins of the old Reef Bay plantation factory greet you at the bottom of the trail.
As you head along Centerline Road, the Catherineberg ruins sit on a small road to the north. This plantation served as the headquarters for the slaves that revolted in the 1733 uprising. The sugar mill is restored and is a good place to picnic. After you visit, return to Centerline Road for the drive back to Cruz Bay.
Getting to Know St. Croix
Seven flags have flown over the island once called Ay-Ay by Indians, Santa Cruz by Columbus and Saint Croix by the French. Denmark bought it from France in 1733 as an agricultural colony, and the United States, in turn, bought all three islands for $25 million in 1917. Today, vast acres dotted with stone towers that used to be sugar mills are the last remaining witnesses of plantation days, when St. Croix bustled with international commerce.
At 28 miles in length and seven miles across at its widest, St. Croix is shaped like a shoe with its toe pointing east. Rent a car, book a safari van or arrange an open-air jeep tour to take full advantage of attractions you'll find from one end to the other.
A Regal Pair: Christiansted and Frederiksted
Named for Danish kings, St. Croix's two towns — Christiansted on the north shore and Frederiksted at the west end — share a wealth of history. Start at the waterfront lawn of the 7-acre Christiansted Historic Site overseen by the National Park Service to imagine colonial life in the 18th and 19th centuries.
At Fort Christiansvaern (1738), wander through solders' living quarters and ascend for a fine view of Christiansted Harbor framed by iron cannons that protected settlers against invasion. In the central grassy area, you can walk up the ?welcoming arms? staircase of the Danish Customs House (1844), although the building is not open for touring.
The Scale House (1856) has arched doors and a huge scale that colonists used to weigh sugar and bales of cotton before exporting goods on sailing ships docked along the wharf. A bookstore here offers a good selection of island information.
Facing the fort across Hospital Street are the Danish West India & Guinea Company warehouse compound (1749), where slave auctions were once held in a courtyard, and the Steeple Building (1753) at the corner of Company Street, St. Croix's first Lutheran church. Two blocks down King Street is Government House, originally two private homes that Denmark bought in 1771 to house an administrative base for the three islands before changing the capital to St. Thomas a century later.
After soaking up history, you can shop at small galleries and boutiques along Company Street, King Street, Strand Street and the cross streets that link them. Or stroll the boardwalk at the north end of town, relax in a waterfront restaurant and watch the seaplanes take off.
Peaceful Frederiksted has a deep-water harbor facing a row of stately Danish buildings that now greet cruise ships instead of trade schooners. Amid Strand Street's Danish-designed shady arcades, the Caribbean Museum Center for the Arts at No. 10 showcases the work of regional artists. In the blocks behind the waterfront, notice Victorian-style clapboard houses with gingerbread trim, rebuilt after the 1878 workers' revolt burned much of the town.
Walk a few blocks north along the water to see red Fort Frederik (1752), built by the Danes to prevent smuggling and now the most historic spot on the U.S. Virgin Islands. Governor-General Peter von Scholten mounted these ramparts to proclaim an end to slavery in the Danish West Indies and changed the character of the islands forever.
Near the West End
Whim Museum on Queen Mary Highway (Route 70) is a large restored 18th-century plantation with an antique-filled great house you can tour, as well as outbuildings and a sugar mill. At the historic Cruzan Rum Distillery, follow a guide through warehouses where rainwater and molasses are processed into rum and bottled for export. Taste samples before driving (carefully) to the nearby St. George Village Botanical Garden to wander through 16 acres planted with an array of exotic species amid plantation ruins.
In the dense tropical forest above Frederiksted on Route 76, visit the charming Lawaetz Museum furnished with a Danish farm family's antiques for insight into life in the first half of the 20th century. A few miles east at the Mt. Pellier Domino Club, it's traditional to buy a can of nonalcoholic brew for the famous ?beer-drinking pig. Watch him dispatch it — can and all — and enjoy a refreshment yourself.
Cruising the Coast
Head north on Route 69 to St. Croix's northwest coastline for some limin' time at palm-fringed Cane Bay, known for its beach bars, snorkeling and scuba diving. Drive east to the Salt River Bay National Historical Park and Ecological Preserve, where Columbus sent his crew ashore in 1493 — a fine place for a kayaking ecotour. A hilltop visitor center provides a smashing view of the bay below (but may be closed while undergoing upgrades).
On the other side of Christiansted, at the Gallows Bay ferry dock, you can arrange a sunset cruise (from November through May) on the schooner Roseway, a 1925 tall ship now used for nonprofit educational programs.
Driving the dry northeast coast, you'll pass miles of cactus-studded hills to reach Point Udall, the easternmost point of the United States, topped by a Millennium Monument built in 1999. On the return trip, notice the Very Long Baseline Array, part of a system of radio-telescope antennas — and a turreted hilltop castle, the private residence of a contessa.
Cross the island at its narrowest point (Route 60) to cruise the south shore's hilly coastline, perhaps with a stopover at Divi Carina Bay, the only casino on the Virgin Islands.
Halfway along the south coast is the hard-to-miss Hovensa oil refinery, one of the largest in the Western Hemisphere. Above it midisland are the Sunny Isle Shopping Center and the entrance to the Melvin H. Evans Highway (Route 66), which leads back to the airport, Frederiksted and the west end attractions.
CARIBBEAN MUSEUM CENTER FOR THE ARTS
10 Strand St. & 62 King St., Frederiksted
340-772-2622 • info@cmcarts.orgm
www.cmcarts.org
beautiful historic property on the Frederiksted waterfront. The classic Danish architecture offers a perfect setting for spacious exhibition galleries, visiting artist in residence apartments, working art studios and classrooms, pottery studio, gift shop and beautiful courtyard. The Museum offers these wonderful facilities for both public and private performances and events.
DIVI CARINA BAY RESORT & CASINO
5035 Turner Hole, Christiansted
Resort: 877-773-9700, 340-773-9700 • www.divicarina.com
Casino: 340-773-PLAY (7529) • www.carinabay.com
Located on a quiet stretch of beach on St. Croix, Divi Carina Bay Beach Resort & Casino combines privacy and relaxation with modern style and amenities. Two hundred spacious beachfront guestrooms and deluxe hillside suites offer private balconies with stunning views. The resort features a PADI five-star dive operation, an 18-hole miniature golf course and driving range, and a full-service spa. Divi Casino offers gaming excitement including table games, live and video poker, a simulcast betting area, slot machines, a café and a showbar.
Aquarium and Eco Tour photos supplied by Coral World Ocean Park, St. Thomas.
Find a complete list of activities, island tours and day trips, tour operators, charter boats for dive, snorkeling, fishing and swimming, golf and water sports - right here in our Activities Directory.
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