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Getting to Know St. John
Home to Virgin Islands National Park, St. John is the perfect spot for nature lovers who want to lounge on the island’s stunning white-sand beaches, swim, snorkel or scuba dive the crystalline waters, or hike the island's leafy trails. The park occupies more than half of the 20-square-mile island. Some homes, a hotel and campgrounds sit within the park boundaries, but most development is in the Cruz Bay and Coral Bay areas. Two main roads and a side road link the two towns.
Outdoor activities are the main event, but there’s plenty of shopping and many dining options when you want something less strenuous. Plus, you can’t beat the people-watching in Cruz Bay Park. Located just across from the ferry dock, this is the perfect place to get your bearings if you’ve just arrived for a day trip.
Accommodations provide something for everyone. Two major hotels, multiple condominium complexes, vacation villas that range from posh to bare bones, and a handful of campgrounds with varying degrees of amenities round out the accommodations list.
Arrival is by ferry from either downtown Charlotte Amalie or Red Hook, both on St. Thomas, to the island’s main town of Cruz Bay. If you haven’t lined up a rental car, taxi drivers will take you to your destination. The two hotels operate private ferries to their docks to start your luxury vacation in style.
Although there are a few small convenience-type stores in Coral Bay, Cruz Bay is the place to stock up on necessities. Groceries, sunscreen, bottled water, beach towels, coolers to hold your beach beverages and whatever else you need are all available.
If you need to fill up your gas tank, Cruz Bay has the island’s only gas station. Want to mail those postcards home? Cruz Bay is also home to the island’s only post office.
Start your sightseeing in Cruz Bay by either taking a taxi or renting a car if you haven’t already done so. There are many agencies scattered around the town, but it’s prudent to make reservations in advance.
Shopping and dining are why most people linger in Cruz Bay, but a stroll around the grounds of the red-roofed Battery provides nice harbor views. Built in the 19th century, it now serves as the local government’s seat.
Be sure to stop at either the local government’s Visitor Center in the small courtyard next to the post office or the V.I. National Park’s Visitor Center near the start of the North Shore Road for maps and information.
Head out the North Shore Road for lovely views from the many overlooks along the way. Don’t forget to make time for a swim at the beach. All the beaches are wonderful, but if you want a beach with some amenities try either Trunk Bay or Cinnamon Bay. Both have showers, lunch and vast expanses of gorgeous white sand. At Trunk, a snorkel along the underwater trail is a bonus. Only Trunk has lifeguards.
Cinnamon Bay offers up an easy stroll through old plantation ruins located across the road from the campground and beach complex. If you’re up for a longer walk, take the half-mile loop trail. It starts and ends at the ruins, and takes you through the forest past an old plantation-era cemetery.
Continue along the North Shore Road with a stop at Annaberg Plantation. Built in the 1780s, the park has shored up the ruins of an old plantation. The view of Sir Francis Drake Channel and the nearby British Virgin Islands from near the sugar mill is magnificent. During the winter season, you might find docents to answer your questions or demonstrations of old-time crafts.
Francis Bay is in the same neighborhood. Park at the long, low building along the road for a very easy half-mile walk around the salt pond. You’ll pass the ruins of an old estate house. The pond is a terrific birding location. The path brings you out at Francis Bay Beach, another good spot for spending a few hours in the sun.
The North Shore Road eventually runs into the island’s main artery, Centerline Road. Head left to visit Coral Bay. It’s a small village with shops and restaurants spread out along the road for a mile or so. The name Coral Bay comes from the Dutch word for corral, krawl.
Continue along to Salt Pond, a worthwhile trip although it’s a bit of a walk downhill — that means it’s uphill on the return — to a lovely white-sand beach. Head to the far side of the beach for a hiking trail through cactus gardens to Ram Head. The views in three directions are spectacular. If you take the flatter path past a salt pond, you’ll reach the windswept Drunk Bay.
Retrace your drive to Centerline Road, where you’ll head toward Cruz Bay. Stop at the Bordeaux Overlook for great views looking east from St. John’s highest point. Bordeaux rises 1,277 feet above sea level.
If you’re up for a big hike, the two-mile Reef Bay trailhead is on Centerline Road. It takes about an hour and a half down and about two hours back uphill. The side trail to the petroglyphs, about one-third of a mile long and located near the bottom of the trail, is worthwhile to see the rock art left behind by the Taino Indians. They lived on St. John starting around the year 800 until 1490. The ruins of the old Reef Bay plantation factory greet you at the bottom of the trail.
As you head along Centerline Road, the Catherineberg ruins sit on a small road to the north. This plantation served as the headquarters for the slaves who revolted in the 1733 uprising. The sugar mill is restored and is a good place to picnic. After you visit, return to Centerline Road for the drive back to Cruz Bay.
Find a complete list of activities, island tours and day trips, tour operators, charter boats for dive, snorkeling, fishing and swimming, golf and water sports - right here in our Activities Directory.
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